I'm planning on installing cruise control on my little girl and was wondering if there was enough interest to post ongoing with pics. It wouldn't happen all at once but as time permitted.I AM IN NO WAY a mechanic. I have no credentials expressed or implied in this type of work. This is not recognized as a correct modification to their motorcycle. Anyone attempting this install based on my presentation does so entirely at their own risk, peril, and determination. I will in no way be held responsible for or to anyone copying or attempting any part of what I am presenting here.
Here' s what's in the box... the vacuum cannister, cruise module, switch, various connectors, cable wrap, tubing etc..
and it's actually all under here
only to see if it would fit before I committed (got committed?) to it fully.
Here's a pic of the evap cannister holder that is exclusively designed for the model E-33 California bikes. It does have two little flanges that join on to the rubber box behind it, but besides that has no use whatsoever. It's too bad because if the oem cannister were just a touch larger in diameter the cruise module would have been a no brainer. As it is it's just in the way and makes it impossible to mount the module - let alone the vacuum cannister - out of sight. A note that riders on other sites I've seen showing css-100 installs make their own vacuum cannisters out of pvc and mount them down by the rear shock. Guess I'm not that adventurous.
and here's the space it opens up making the install possible
As the destruction continues, this is the view that awaits those of us who have never changed the plugs on their ride....tank removed. This model only has two plugs, later ones have 4 but I don't know what year they started that, this being the '06 which is when I believe they went to FI from carburated. I"m hoping in all this mess is a vacuum hose I'll be able to tap in to. Also, notice all the linkage at the bottom left of the big black rubber thingie...that's where we'll be hooking up. Specifically, to the throttle 'wheel' right in front of it. Hard to see in this pic. This shot is from the saddle position.
Here's a close up of the throttle wheel. What you can't see at about the 1 o'clock position is a small finger, or tang. I'm taking a cue from another install I had read and am going to drill a small hole in it to put a clip thru and connect to the cruise cable using a number of fittings generously supplied in the kit. But there's a catch.
In order to drill that hole, you'll need to roll the throttle almost full on (a buddy is helpful here) so it rotates to about 11 O''clock so you can see it from the side and then use an extension as shown here (minus the drill bit)so you can reach it. The chuck on the drill is just too big to fit but it's slick as anything with the extension. I'm sure a Dremel with it's remote chuck will do as good a job.
This mount will be bolted to the rearward most bolt on the front cylinder. You can just see it at the bottom left of the side view pic. The cruise cable will mount in one of the slotted mounts.
It would be a comparatively long thread, but may be useful to the odd person like myself. Comments and critiques welcome.
Not a great lot to present this time, just the hole I managed to drill.
I had my wife hold the throttle open, held a flashlight in my teeth and drilled a 1/16" hole, then widened it to 1/8". That's the top frame rail in front of my finger. I got this side on shot by rolling the throttle forward and wedging my index finger in against the tang which itself is hard against the forward stop (you can see the return 'push' cable to the left). Note the electric tape on that wire?...that's my rear spark plug lead, the result of using the regular drill with no extension. The chuck spun against it resulting in a slight wear on the
outside of the plug wire. Not thru, but I wrapped it in thin rubber and electrical tape for good measure. Its not visible in the finished job. Lesson learned. Next up is securing the cruise cable/servo.
This is the assembly that will connect to the hole drilled in the throttle wheel earlier. I picked up a #5 snap swivel from the sports section at Walmart. So far it's the only part not included with the kit. In the photo, the top is the before, bottom shows the top 'eye' removed and inserted in the kit supplied bead chain connector. Open
the wide end of the clip, put thru the hole, snap it closed and hopefully the most diffiicult part of the whole install is done. Once Ihave this completed I'll secure the cruise cable and connect it up.
This is the cable mount that gets bolted to the rearward bolt on the forward cylinder (the one closest to the throttle assembly). It's been modified from it's original configuration by turning the mounting hole into a slot, and bending it upward to have the slotted mount on the side line up with the bead chain connector on the throttle and dodge the push/pull cables. I'm sure it'll take a few tries to get the angle right. That's all I have for now.
This shot is of the cruise module cable and bead connector. There are two connectors. This one is clamped to the ball on the end of the cable. The open end is attached to a short length of bead chain. The chain then connects to the bead connector/snap swivel on the throttle. The bead chain is to provide a small amount of slack so as not to interfere with the throttle closing all the way
This shows the mount for the module cable. It's attached by the rearwardmost bolt on the top of the front cylinder
This is just to show the cable -- or lack of cable -- visible. A very small section is just seen below the round tank mount. That will not be visible when the tank is re-installed.
The module and vacuum lines are next. Comments and critiques welcome.
Here's one of a couple of ideas I may or may not devote any time to. Double checking that the throttle worked correctly got me to thinking about the slackness in the cable/bead chain when using the throttle normally. In cruise is not an issue, but rolling the throttle manually lets the chain sag down toward the throttle stop. The stop itself isn't very wide (sticking out from the engine) so the chain goes to the side but not far enough down even at full throttle to catch on anything (I think I wore out the throttle spring proving this to myself) but I'd rather not even have a whisper of a thought that it might. Here's the throttle stop beside the wheel assembly
A small piece of tubing wedged over it to make the stop wider would do the job, but I found a small file clip does the job admirably, holds tight, doesn't get in the way of anything and is removable. I drew a schematic to better show my twisted logic.
...and here it is onthe bike.
This bit of backyard engineering may not even be necessary, I merely present it as something to consider -- and to be aware of. One less surprise to encounter.
I'm installing the servo unit and vacuum cannister. There's a 10 pin connector that goes to the back of the servo. There's also a plug to remove for standard transmission use. The settings in the back of the unit should be switches 1 and 7 on, switches 2,3,4,5,6 off. Wiring will be pretty straight forward. It looks complicated, partly because they give you such great lengths of it! I'll shoot each one as I do it.
Basically, it's ground, coil, keyed power, brake switch. Anyway, from the vacuum cannister I've run a vacuum line from the amp
outlet to the servo. I've also run a vacuum line from the man
fitting to tee off of the engine when lo and behold, the oem line is smaller diameter! Another delay. Hmmm, must see if the wife is
chanting funny things over tea leaves again. oh well... I"ve secured the servo with zip ties. I also drilled a hole in the bracket for a bolt to hold it using the original cannister mounting point. Vacuum can
is zipped also. This is shot from rear right.
Here's the control pad. I'll make a nice mount for it that will fit at the mirror base on the throttle side. I'm used to it located there on the Wing so its a comfortable action. The control pad is smaller than the brake unit and will fit behind it quite nicely. I show this to give you a look at a trick I use when adding stuff. I wrapped the wires in
electrical tape and slid a length of heat shrink tubing over it and shrank (shrunk?..shrinked?) it down. It looks like a normal cable among all the others. The 4pin clip was added after. The two longer wires are black ground and a grey pad lighting wire.
Captain, I think it's just my phobia for trying to cover all the bases
and show everything that makes it look like a lot of work.
This is a shot of the vacuum connection. I found from the manual it was the IAP line. Hard to find buried under a couple of other hoses, but easy to identify as it has a red stripe! The stripe isn't visible here but trust me. I need only splice in to one of the two IAP hoses as the cruise module is a closed system meaning it holds vacuum so it'll balance. It was explained I don't have to splice into both (though I may yet) lines due to this. I found the easiest place to splice was up near the actual sensor near the front.
This white connector is the connection for the negative coil on the left side of the bike. Talk about having a hard time finding it! I must have looked for 10 minutes before it dawned on me it was under a rubber flap and could be viewed from underneath. Here the edge of the rubber is being held back. That round thing on the left is one of the holes for the neck side cover.
This is a closer picture of the negative coil connection, but with the blue wire from the cruise control connected to it.
This is the servo end of the wire harness. I have it threaded up to the neck area where the control pad connector will join it. There's one red wire from this, a "key on" power lead that will connect under the seat, as well as a ground wire from the switch harness that will connect to the negative battery post battery
There are two wires leading off to the bottom of the photo. They're not connected yet but everything else in the photo is. I have things bundled up out of the way for the most part. The purple wire is the brake interrupt, it connects to the white wire under the seat so the front or rear brake will disengage the cruise. The red wire is another power wire that will connect under the seat to a 'key on' power source.
Notice the vacuum connections. The install is starting to look a bit cleaner now. I'm in the home stretch!
This is a mockup of the control panel placement. It's quite easy to thumb. I'll create a mount that will be trapped between the mirror stem and base. It's a lot simpler than it sounds.
After some creative cursing and simple brute force, every thing fits behind the cover. Tightly, but it fits. I tried moving the end of the vacuum cable in and out and it slides quite easily so there's no binding. So far so good...
Well, the major stuff is done. Here are the connections at the battery for ground, and at the connector for the disconnect (you can't see it as it's taped up but its the white wire) and key on power (agan, taped
up but it's the brown wire)
Here's the connector for the keypad and cruise module/harness. I got lucky with wiring placement as I can jam a bunch of it behind the neck area where it won't be seen.
Here's the template for the mount that the keypad is going on. The yellow is the cardboard template. The black lines are the fold points. The metal beside is what I'll be using after its edges have been smoothed out and a slot drilled in the center for the wires to go thru.
Curious. Did the smoke test the other night (turned it on) and it passed. No smoke, no fuses blown....but an odd, very low hard-to-pick up volume whine. Think of a smoke alarm but at 1/100000 the volume. Odd because:
a: the bike is not running
b: its only present in neutral with run (kill) switch 'on'.
c: not present with run (kill) switch 'off' but still in neutral
c: not present when the bike is running
d: no error on the lcd
The only thing I've tapped in to elecrically is the negative side of the left coil. The ground (earth?) for both ground wires is the negative battery pole. There's a noise eliminator in-line supplied with the kit, it works. 'Course, if this is the noise it's supposed to prevent, obviously not, but current flows so that says it does. Maybe just one of those things.... any ideas? Doesn't bother me, just piques my curiosity.
EDIT: The whine went on its own
Just a couple of pics to show the mount. I don't think I'm going to paint it as it's not really going to show all that much, only the top and the side edge. If I do paint it, I'll probably decide on stainless or some sort of aluminum/silver.
Before mounting the control pad, it needs to be water proofed. The unit is designed to be out of the weather (read wet) so some sealing is in order.
This shows the pad face plate panel removed and the rubber switch cover. I'll put RTV inside the face plate and re install the rubber cover. That will prevent any water from entering via the switches.
I've re-assembled the panel. In so doing I've stuffed it full of RTV silicone to stop water at the back seams. Note also I've plugged where the 6 wires come out. That area will be sheltered from the elements for the most part but I may as well do a full job. As messy as it appears, that white square is simply the backing for the double sided adhesive underneath it. It will attach the panel to the mountng plate I made.
Also, one other thing. The grey wire's only function is to light the panel. It makes the on/off set/reset switches glow green all the time
. I decided I only want the small central dot between the switches to glow when
I'm actually using the cruise. When I press the on switch, the little dot glows green. Turn the unit off, and the dot goes off. I didn't cut off the wire as I may chose to use it at some future time or if I take it off when and if I ever sell her.
And with this post, it's done. And a few pics to show that there's...
nuthin' to see here....
which was a large part of the whole point....or something like that.
...but you can see this
I'll let you know how the road test went. Thanx for letting me post progress on here. It was a fun, sometimes vexating project. But the next one will be a lot easier! Things I'd change? I'd build a better mount for sure. The one I have is ok, but it's thin metal so I don't know how long it's going to last. I'd also give more time to finding another mount for the cruise cable. I'm sure the cylinder head is OK though. Time will tell. And if I were to do it to this bike again, I'd say goodbye to the toolbox and mount it all on the left side where there's tons of room. Anyway, if there are any questions you may have where I confused the hell out of you (besides myself), I'd be happy to try to further confound the issue. Thanx again for letting me have the room. Hope the install was of Interest.