* Cheap Electronic Tacho *

Somebody asked recently if there were any cheap, easy to fit tacho's on the market but I cant find who asked or in which thread the asked.
I've found this cheap tacho if anyone is still looking. It will work on the Intruder at the factory default setting and is very easy to fit.

LINK

Well found Dave.

Good find Dave, I might get one just because I'm curious what revs I'm at sometimes

Nice one Dave, well cheap and unobtrusive

curiosity has bit me and ive just orded one......

At that price for an easy fit tachometer I reckon we will see a few more add them when you give a write up on it

doobie wrote:

curiosity has bit me and ive just orded one......

How did you get on with it Lez?

so i got the tacho about two weeks after placing the order, spent a while thinking this cant be that easy to fit but it was. it goes on about crank shaft rotation's and how many does your engine do (didnt have a frikkin clue so binned that) just went for the fit.

cleaned the front ht lead i dont thik it matters which one and thread the tacho cable down through the side plastic key side



and wrapped the red tail around the ht lead



then wrapped insulation tape around that to hold it in place



stuck by here as it was the best place to veiw.

tick over shows 540 rpm dont know if thats correct or not, i'll have to check again on other speeds

and basically thats it

Lez thats at half revs as your bike ticks over at 1100 approx.

oh well

thats the bit i didnt understand, i'm not mechaniclly minded so any help would be much appreiciated

great news.....i've got it sorted, the setting you need is the 0.5 revolution, this gives you 1120rpm at tick over

This was my reply that I thought I had sent a while ago but hadn't & you got in before me, glad you sorted it.

Just been browsing and this unit works straight out of the box for years up to 2004, from 2005 because of the dual coils you need to change the PPL. So just to get the RPM right, ignore stages 2 & 3 and just do stage 1. You need to change it to 0.5. from my research.

Good to see it all works fine

Lez. How much did it cost including postage?.

AAAARGGHHHH!!! Enough with the cheap mods... my wife will kill me!!!

Not sure if you guys want cheap or even bloody cheaper but if your after even cheaper have a look HERE !!!!!!!!!  

Bloody hell that's a good price, typically of me I have just ordered the other one but that's fine because I wanted and ordered a black one.
Good find though Crash.  

Mr Intruder wrote:

typically of me I have just ordered the other one but that's fine because I wanted and ordered a black one

Is this to replace the chrome Tacho on the Intruder Dave?

Yeah I am going to remove the "Baron tach" as it does my head in. I have had random on off problems with needle jump which is pretty common on these apparently. there are posts all over the net about this issue with single fire ignition. The connections need to be perfect I believe for it to work properly as each time I have took them off and cleaned then all is good for a while and the only way I can see of getting it good enough all the time is to drop some solder on the connections and I don't want to do that.

Just been reading through some old posts Dave and just noticed that it is only the fuel injected models that are single fire, so in turn that means all the 800's up until 2005 where dual fire which means the Baron tach you have will definitely work on them without any issue. 
So...................... sell it

Very true Crash but I can't be bothered.

Hi folks
Since this thread is about "cheap tachos" to avoid open a new topic, here i am talking about my black tacho also cheap one, but from Germany.

I installed yesterday and today i tried the 3 setup modes:
2.0 - PPR (1 spark per revolution)
1.0 - PPR (2 sparks per revolution)
0.5 - PPR (1 spark per 2 revolutions)

Well, in 0.5 mode the tick over was between 350-450. Too low.
In 1.0 mode was between 800-850.
But  when i went for a test and in 5 gear the rpm's was in 2.250 at 62 miles. I know that the redline in mine is at 6.000 rpm's, so, this "perhaps" making sense between speed/rpm's.

But i returned to the garage, i checked the wires, the wrap pick-up wire cable around the rear spark and then i setup it to 2.0. Now the tick over displays 1000-1100 rpm (the same as Mr I/Dave said).
My Busa had the normal idle mode at 1.500 rpm's.

So, what you think? 

you want to keep it in 2.0 mode...

CanadianCruiser wrote:

you want to keep it in 2.0 mode...

  Idle speed is around 1100 rpm .

toyou2   

Just fitted my Trail Tech cheapo tacho at last, here it is.

Rider view at the moment, I currently have it bolted in position with the wire disappearing into the housing.
At a later date I will cut the shape of it in the mounting point & bury it in.

That looks good in black against your black speedo housing, should look real good when you have sunk it in 

captain crash wrote:

That looks good in black against your black speedo housing, should look real good when you have sunk it in 

 I prefer the Black one.

Looks nice... here's a pic of mine.. did some sanding with a Dremel to get a nice fit...

I had a baron tach fitted before similar type of tach to you have in looks. Is that a cheap tacho?

Kind of ... The wiring is the same and the look but this one is sealed... It's what the Harley boys around here get... runs around 60$ CDN.

Talked to a few guys at the coffee shops and some have gotten the super "El Chepo" ones from ebay and found that the housing would rust out quickly.  Drag specialties guarantees on all "dual Fire" systems with nothing more needed... if you have a single fire they sell their adapter that's plug and play.

Not a bad buy in my opinion.

Seems very reasonable. I still have a Baron tach in my workshop that was never consistently good on my Intruder, I needed to keep messing with it. I will keep though, just in case it works better on a dual firing system.

Well guys, mine is this:



I think it's the best place to fit it, because it's  just look a little bit down and always keep my eyes on the road.

Looks nice.... love the steel lines... thinking of doing it myself..

Yep - Much prefer Sim's pic ...... I like the look of the yellow/black/white Yamaha colours too on this bike model/variant, but as mentioned it doesn't quite come together. As Sim says - the ones to the bottom of the initial posting are the better looking of the bunch.   

I note the Captain's comment re the 883 .... but I think there is something perversely quaint about them ... despite them being 'branded' a 'girlie bike' ...... but I will not be voting with my feet on that one 'cos the seating configuration does not suit my body shape .....
A mix of :guttss:  & :ogit: .... The XR1200 on the other hand does fit me OK, but they've stopped making them & the current 2nd hand prices seem somewhat overvalued.

CanadianCruiser wrote:

Kind of ... The wiring is the same and the look but this one is sealed... It's what the Harley boys around here get... runs around 60$ CDN.

Talked to a few guys at the coffee shops and some have gotten the super "El Chepo" ones from ebay and found that the housing would rust out quickly.  Drag specialties guarantees on all "dual Fire" systems with nothing more needed... if you have a single fire they sell their adapter that's plug and play.

Not a bad buy in my opinion.

I like that Tachometer that you have but I wonder it is difficult to install in a C800 2007, because in that case I preffer the cheap one because is easier to wrap the wire.... on another hand I can go to a mechanic, what model do you have?

I have installed the SpeedoHealer and the GiPro, but that was using connectors

Drag specialties 2211-0057  is the one I have.  Install is easy 4 wires

Black (earth) Blue (light 12v+) Red (12v+ Switched) Green (Negative side of Ignition coil)

Coming off the ignition coil there is 2 wires one is negative. all you do is tap the green wire into that.

Here is the LINKY for the instructions.

I found this one on Internet, I didn´t now if it is appropiate for the Intruder

Overview of Drag Specialties Mechanical Mini 8000 RPM Tach with Black Face - DS-244139

RATIO 2:1

• Features include chrome bodies, polished stainless bezels, non-fluctuating needles, back-lit translucent faces, chrome Y-mount and handlebar clamps
  
  
• Body diameters are 2.4 in. (61 mm), bezel diameters are 2.64 in. (67 mm)
  
  
• Overall length is 3 in. (76.2 mm)
  
  
• Mechanical tach has a 12 mm head
  
  
• Available with white (H400232) or black face (H40-0234)
  
  

NOTE:Tach adapter 40-8044 required for single fire ignition

Those are Mechanical versions (2 wire)... Non compatible... you want Electronic (4 wire) version: Look at the image notice the wire difference.
Just did this in Trade school.. Mechanical Tachs work primarily on a mechanical marker on the crank or cable (Mostly found on old bikes Eg kickstart machines.) our bikes have a magnetic pickup that is on the crank and sends the signal.  2 Wire Tachs can't interpret this signal hence the 4 wire electronic. As the crank turns the magnet passes over another magnet and sends the signal to the ECU or if unequipped (97-2004 VZ800's) it sends the signal directly to the negative side of the ignition coils. this causes a ground and causes the coil to spark. Electronic Tachs attach to this wire and read the pulse.


Any of these product numbers are electronic
2211-0057 Chrome Black face/white needle
2211-0058 Chrome White face/Black needle

2211-0119 Black housing Black face/white needle
2211-0120 Black housing While face/Black needle.

Feature chrome bodies, polished stainless bezels, non-fluctuating needles, back-lit translucent faces, chrome Y-mount and handlebar clamps
[*]Water- and vibration-resistant construction
[*]Body diameter is 2.4" (61mm); bezel diameter is 2.64" (67mm)
[*]Overall length is 3.0" (76.2mm) for mechanical tachs, 2.7" (68.6mm) for electric tachs
[*]Electric tachs have color-coded wires and wiring instructions
[*]Available with a white or black face
[*]NOTE: Electric tach may require a tach adapter when used with some single-fire ignitions (NOT NEEDED WITH OUR BIKES!)
[*]NOTE: Matching Drag Specialties mini speedometers available

You must attack the wire with a conector... I don't know how are known this connectors in English (vamp connectors in spanish)



So this Tachometer no needs ratio, but what wire of the coil you must connect?

They are called scotch taps... and they are garbage.  your better off soldering the new wire right to the original wire.  Over time the cut through the original wire and before you know it your stuck on the side of the road looking like a baboon while you scratch your ass and head trying to figure out what happened.

You connect it to the orange/white wire from either coil. It doesn't matter which one.. Only needs to be connected to one coil..

That is the ground wire.

That's marvelous!

I can remove the insulating non-conductor from one of the wires without problems, I can soldiering musch better and place a insulating tube that is retracting when you hot it or simple non-conductor tape

I suppossed you connect the rest of the wires directly to the battery or to the headlight terminal


I found the black faced on a Custom Spanish Shop...70€ including shipping cost (55 GBP/100 CAD)


It is cheap and good looking!


Thanks a lot!!!

1 RELAY ASSY, STARTING MOTOR
2 COVER, RELAY ASSY
3 FUSE (30A)
4 BOLT (6X8)
5 RECTIFIER ASSY
6 BOLT
7 CLAMP (L:90)
8 COIL ASSY, IGNITION
9 COIL ASSY, IGNITION
10 SPACER (6.4X10X18)
11 CLAMP
12 BOLT, IGNITION COIL
12A CUSHION (58X58X10)
13 CAP, SPARK PLUG
14 SEAL, SPARK PLUG
15 SEAL, HIGH TENSION CORD
16 CONTROL UNIT, FI
17 SENSOR ASSY, FUEL CUT
18 BRACKET, FUEL CUT
19 SPACER, FUEL CUT
20 CUSHION, FUEL CUT
21 BOLT, FUEL CUT
22 BRACKET, FI UNIT
23 BOLT, FI UNIT (6X12)

Mr Intruder wrote:

Yeah I am going to remove the "Baron tach" as it does my head in. I have had random on off problems with needle jump which is pretty common on these apparently. there are posts all over the net about this issue with single fire ignition. The connections need to be perfect I believe for it to work properly as each time I have took them off and cleaned then all is good for a while and the only way I can see of getting it good enough all the time is to drop some solder on the connections and I don't want to do that.

In some bikes the seller recoments you to install the tacho just to 1 coil, but in fact you have to connect to the ground of both coils to make it work properly

The problem of that Tach is where you place the Navigator and the GiPro then? You could be without space in the handlebar

CanadianCruiser wrote:

Those are Mechanical versions (2 wire)... Non compatible... you want Electronic (4 wire) version: Look at the image notice the wire difference.
Just did this in Trade school.. Mechanical Tachs work primarily on a mechanical marker on the crank or cable (Mostly found on old bikes Eg kickstart machines.) our bikes have a magnetic pickup that is on the crank and sends the signal.  2 Wire Tachs can't interpret this signal hence the 4 wire electronic. As the crank turns the magnet passes over another magnet and sends the signal to the ECU or if unequipped (97-2004 VZ800's) it sends the signal directly to the negative side of the ignition coils. this causes a ground and causes the coil to spark. Electronic Tachs attach to this wire and read the pulse.


Any of these product numbers are electronic
2211-0057 Chrome Black face/white needle
2211-0058 Chrome White face/Black needle

2211-0119 Black housing Black face/white needle
2211-0120 Black housing While face/Black needle.

Feature chrome bodies, polished stainless bezels, non-fluctuating needles, back-lit translucent faces, chrome Y-mount and handlebar clamps
[*]Water- and vibration-resistant construction
[*]Body diameter is 2.4" (61mm); bezel diameter is 2.64" (67mm)
[*]Overall length is 3.0" (76.2mm) for mechanical tachs, 2.7" (68.6mm) for electric tachs
[*]Electric tachs have color-coded wires and wiring instructions
[*]Available with a white or black face
[*]NOTE: Electric tach may require a tach adapter when used with some single-fire ignitions (NOT NEEDED WITH OUR BIKES!)
[*]NOTE: Matching Drag Specialties mini speedometers available

[*]

The Seller of the Online Shop told me that could be problems with this Tach on Dual Coil Engines... but I found some people that has use them in some Suzukis Non Intruder soldering both coils grounds to the green wire (maybe non ECU ones)

No The tach I posted I what you want.  There is no issues or adapters needed just connect as I've posted and your good to go. I've been using this tach for a year now..

Not to slam online shops but most don't know the difference between a hole in their head from their butt. Yes they sell the product but most don't know the logistics of how they work. Unlike them this is my Trade. I'm a Mechanic.

The problem they are talking about is some Tach's are for Single fire coils. you can't just "Jump" a wire from both coils to the tach and hope for the best. This will short it out and cause backfeed. you need an adapter.

Again for this tach you DON'T. As for the ECU/Non ECU it doesn't matter, the tach gets the signal either way. From the Coil.

CanadianCruiser wrote:

No The tach I posted I what you want.  There is no issues or adapters needed just connect as I've posted and your good to go. I've been using this tach for a year now..

Not to slam online shops but most don't know the difference between a hole in their head from their butt. Yes they sell the product but most don't know the logistics of how they work. Unlike them this is my Trade. I'm a Mechanic.

The problem they are talking about is some Tach's are for Single fire coils. you can't just "Jump" a wire from both coils to the tach and hope for the best. This will short it out and cause backfeed. you need an adapter.

Again for this tach you DON'T. As for the ECU/Non ECU it doesn't matter, the tach gets the signal either way. From the Coil.

I contacted the manufacturer SAT:

Brand: Drag Specialties 

Message: Hello, I am an owner of a Suzuki Intruder C800 (Boulevard C50) 2007 and I want to install a Tachometer I like the Drag Specialties Electrical Mini 8000 RPM Tachometer w/Black Face - 2211-0057 I have a doubt, I don?t know if I need the Tach adapter 40-8044 required for single fire ignition This is the wiring diagram of my bike http://sia1.subirimagenes.net/img/2014/12/24/141224043015525346.jpg I am from Spain and I found the Tachometer on a local shop, but I think that he don\'t have the Tach Adapter. Can he order it with the Dragspecialties 40-8044 part number? Does the Adapter has clear instructions? Thank you I look forward hearing from you


And this was his response :O


Thank you for contacting Parts Unlimited.
We don’t recommend fitment of the Drags Specialties Tachometers to any metric motorcycle. It is designed for Harley use only. We cannot advice compatibility or installation assistance.
Thanks again,
Nathan
Tech Department
Parts Unlimited  
I asked because Baron Tach recomends a Wiring Adapter for Boulevard C50, but I don't know for what years... didn't ask to Baron

Again like I said they don't know much about the technical side of the bikes. Easiest way to tell if you need the adapter is to wire it up (temp no solder on the green wire) if you only get half reading (500 rpm instead of 1000) then you need the adapter. they are easy to get.

As for them just for "Harleys" that's a load of  Especially in North America "Everything is Only Made for Harley's" and not metrics.  Geez Harley's don't even come with a tool kit cause the ones under our seats are made for Them..(sorry little off topic).

 I've installed tons of the Drag specialties tachs on lots of metric bikes.  here is a link to an intruder site where they've installed one.
http://www.boulevardowners.com/cafe/index.cfm?page=topic&topicID=232825

Unfortunately I'm off work for a bit (Had appendix surgery) so I have no shop resources at hand to confirm If you give me a couple days I'll ask my co-workers and get a definitive answer if you need the adapter or not and how it wire's in.