Stock exhaust removal

Anyone got any tips for removal of stock exhaust? After removing the sensors and getting myself a long enough allen key I presume loosen the rear muffler mounts and proceed from there. Can't seem to find any link to step by step instructions. Perhaps its start at the back and work forwards. Anyone who has done this recently might save me a bit of time with tips - thanks.

Sorry I wish I could remember, all that I can remember is that the arse end was a bit of a sod but not overly bad

I've done a bit of a dry run so I think I can get on fairly efficiently when the new pipes arrive. The sensors are a bit fiddly, getting the snap connectors off to protect the wiring when unscrewing. I'm amazed at how precise the stock exhaust assembly is with everything only just gettable at by tools - Suzuki design and development must be a very painstaking process.

I can't really remember the in's & out's of taking mine off as I already said one of the mounting bolts at the back was a bit of a sod to get at I think but I do remember that it came off as a whole unit.
Good luck

The only help I can give you ,if you wish to take it ,is take as much stuff off as possible to get at the exhaust bolts on the head,these to me were the worst ones,very restrictive.Bear in mind my is a 2007 m800/m50.I took the whole air filter off,plus the side cover,these two items were easy to get off and made the whole job a lot easier.I hope this helps.

alfie92 wrote:

The only help I can give you ,if you wish to take it ,is take as much stuff off as possible to get at the exhaust bolts on the head,these to me were the worst ones,very restrictive.Bear in mind my is a 2007 m800/m50.I took the whole air filter off,plus the side cover,these two items were easy to get off and made the whole job a lot easier.I hope this helps.

Yes those bolts are not easy to access - thanks for the tip.

Just to add, remember to get your gaskets before you do the job,I purchased mine from ebay Precise Parts.co.uk,they are sited in Crewe, and were very helpful.Also bear in mind that the stock exhaust is fairly heavy so two pair of hands are better than one.Taking the rear silencers off first will lessen the load for you.

alfie92 wrote:

Just to add, remember to get your gaskets before you do the job,I purchased mine from ebay Precise Parts.co.uk,they are sited in Crewe, and were very helpful.Also bear in mind that the stock exhaust is fairly heavy so two pair of hands are better than one.Taking the rear silencers off first will lessen the load for you.

The exhausts come with new gaskets for the C800, the guy at Custom Cruisers told me. Yes I will take off the mufflers first and then the headers - thanks for the advice.

Bluesman wrote:

alfie92 wrote:

Just to add, remember to get your gaskets before you do the job,I purchased mine from ebay Precise Parts.co.uk,they are sited in Crewe, and were very helpful.Also bear in mind that the stock exhaust is fairly heavy so two pair of hands are better than one.Taking the rear silencers off first will lessen the load for you.

The exhausts come with new gaskets for the C800, the guy at Custom Cruisers told me. Yes I will take off the mufflers first and then the headers - thanks for the advice.

How do you get the rear silencers off and not the down pipes?

ippikin wrote:

How do you get the rear silencers off and not the down pipes?

If you have a lambda sensor on your top muffler you will need to remove that (pull the clip end apart first from behind the black plastic cover to disconnect the cable and then unscrew the bush into the pipe).Take off the clamps and the bolts holding the mufflers on to the black frame bracket. Wiggle around and pull and depending on how much gunge is there, they will eventually come off. They are heavy and may be may be quite stubborn. The gaskets should be fine to use again. What are you planning to do when they are off? If you are planning to take off the headers, you do not need to take off both mufflers - I just did the lower one to reduce the weight and long length.

Go to the joint were the pipes meet loosen all the bolts on both exhausts,and bear in mind you have a piece that joins both pipes together.Then go to the rear of the exhaust and take the bolts out of the bracket,next to your back wheel.If you then twist the silencer side to side you should start to see the top one move,take your time,and keep your eye on the joints.When putting them back together do it very carefully for the sleeved gaskets on the end of the silencers are a pain,and must go on straight otherwise you will not get a good bond.I will take some photo's for you tomoz to see the joints in the exhaust be patient,it is definately a job you must take your time on.

Both went at it at the same time there John

alfie92 wrote:

Both went at it at the same time there John

Yeah - forgot about the link pipe - did mine ages ago!. I have never put mine back on as I took them off to fit new pipes.

Thanks for the advice guys. I may not need to do it....... as you will see from a previous post I had some trouble getting the rear axle out and ended up having to take it back to the dealers; they have got it out and greased it up etc. The mechanic told me that it is always necessary to remove the silencers so you can drift the axle out from the R side of the bike! Not sure I believe him but was wondering how easy a job it was. Probably not that easy from what you're saying.
I shall have to try to get the back wheel off again (without silencer removal) in the next couple of weeks; it was all to get the drive shaft out to lubricate it! If only there was axcess to get a drift through to the rear axle!!
What happens to the linking pipe that connects to the bottom silencer? Does it come off easily?

ippikin wrote:

Thanks for the advice guys. I may not need to do it....... as you will see from a previous post I had some trouble getting the rear axle out and ended up having to take it back to the dealers; they have got it out and greased it up etc. The mechanic told me that it is always necessary to remove the silencers so you can drift the axle out from the R side of the bike! Not sure I believe him but was wondering how easy a job it was. Probably not that easy from what you're saying.
I shall have to try to get the back wheel off again (without silencer removal) in the next couple of weeks; it was all to get the drive shaft out to lubricate it! If only there was axcess to get a drift through to the rear axle!!
What happens to the linking pipe that connects to the bottom silencer? Does it come off easily?

Link pipe was straight forward clamp removal from what I can remember. As for the extra work involved in getting to the drive shaft I can't help thinking that if Suzuki say it's not necessary and they have made it such a time consuming job, is it really worth it? I'm not very mechanical and perhaps the wrong person to give advice but sometimes removing things can cause other problems that we're not there in the first place! - I go by 'if it's not broken-don't fix it.' But if you have got the time and skill to do a job and it gives you peace of mind then have a go. Best of luck whatever you choose to do.

Thanks John. I also agree that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" is a good maxim. I will be trying to remove the axle without taking the silencers off first definitely!

It sounds harder than it is to take the exhaust off, realistically you are looking at a very easy thing to do.
From various posts that you have written it is very apparent that you will be doing your own bike maintenance & this is just a matter of basic spanner work.
Go for it and you will be surprised at how easy it is.

I have just bought the same short cut exhausts as bluesman, so this info will come in handy. Also, wont have to remove any exhaust parts in future to get to the rear axle!

Here you go a couple of quick photos of the joints,as you can see straight forward.You will certainly find your way round this bike,always ask for advise from these forums as stealerships are there to make money out of you,they will give you the worst case senario,to make you feel inadequate.Advice is free,take it,examine it,if it is useful to you keep it,if not take no heed to it,but at least you got it for nothing.I was told this 40+ years ago when I started as an apprentice.Good luck.

Couldn't agree anymore with Alfie than I do, Take all the advice given, just siv out the shit

Just one tip guys, the bolts on the rear mounting bracket need to be accessed between the top and bottom silencers, and there's not enough room to get a standard socket in .... use the box spanner supplied with the OEM toolkit, it fits in great and is long enough to bring the lever point away from the silencers to avoid potentially scratching them. 8)

Couldn't belive how narrow the bore is on the standard exhausts - no wonder the thing was sounding like it was being srangled !!

In fact if the whole muffler was gutted including the cat, this would give one of the best straight through sounding Intruder set of pipes - a bit heavy though! I've also read that if the link pipe is removed you get a lovely v-twin burbly rumble - never tried it though!

Yeah I can see how that would work well, those big pipes would alow a nice deep thud