Clutch and poor running query

Hi all,


 I have just purchased a Roadster that has stood for a couple of years and have a question or two that I wondered if anyone would be able to help me with.


 The clutch has no effect - as though it is burned out totally or permanently disengaged - I have no drive at all. Is this a known problem?
 
Secondly, I am trying to work out why there are four electrical connections to the fuel pump. Are two of those related to the micro-switch on the front carburretor that is activated at full throttle? 


At the moment it only runs on full choke and the only fully on the rear cylinder - the front cylinder is only making the exhaust pipe warm and if I open the choke the engine will not run. I expect the carbs need a clean.


Cheers,


Simon 

Sorry can't help with your problems. If it's any help,I lived in Bath for many years and there used to be a really knowledgeable mechanic with a small bike shop on the Lower Bristol Road, near Park Tavern in Twerton, I think, but that was a while back. If it were me, I'd go to someone local. Best of luck!

Is the clutch lever loose or does it feel like it should??

Regarding the fuel pump etc, I know the Sachs uses the Suzuki engine but I have no idea if it is wired the same, I had a VX800 and as far as I can remember it did not have a fuel pump. I'm not sure if they did a workshop manual but it maybe worth trying to get one if they did or at least a wiring diagram.

If the bike has been stood a while the jets in the carbs maybe blocked, spark plug knackered, faulty coil, faulty HT lead......... the list is endless as to what the problem could be, you will just have to eliminate one at a time.

Cheers all,

Carbs cleaned - now all runs perfectly.  Clutch has started working, tho seems to bite late.  I'll persevere and see if it gets better. Just a main beam warning light and it's MoT time. Perfect.

For the clutch - There is a clutch adjustment inside the removable transmission casing where the clutch cable goes into the engine. This is basically similar to a tappet adjuster - a screw with a locknut.
To adjust, first slacken the clutch cable at the handlebars, then undo locknut at engine end and turn screw in till you get 'resistance', then back it of 1/4 turn & retighten locknut. Then re-set cable at handlebar end.  That could help you get a better clutch action.

Thanks OldManYam - the Sachs clutch is irritatingly hydraulic. I'll get inside the case and see if there is adjustment but I suspect not. Not to worry, at least it has now decided to work!

Ooops .... I was assuming it was like the VX800 .... on a cable clutch.

Seeing its hydraulic, I would highly recommend changing the hydraulic fluid as it may well have gone off. Should be done every two years - as should brake fluid.

Hope you \are 'getting there ! .... I nearly went for a Sachs 800 roadster when I was looking for the 'VX', but the seller declined my offer. ..... but later said he would take it .... AFTER I'd found my current VX - So it was not meant to be. It is a nice bioke though (The Sachs).

Cheers

Yam