Clutch advice

So, Medusa needs a new clutch .... tried adjusting it but it’s slipping in top gear under power so obviously needs replacing.
Just wondered if anyone had any advice on manufacturer’s ( eg EBC etc ) and which would be best.
Also, I think I should change the steel plates and springs whilst I’m at it .... believe it or not,I’ve never had to change a clutch on any bike I’ve had. What’s the opinion on that ?

I did replace the clutch on my girlfriends GT185 back in the late 70’s ( outside, in the pissing rain ..... ( ah, the things we do for love   ) but I have absolutely no memory of it !

I doubt if it needs a new clutch Mick, more likely the springs are getting weak, I had the same problem with my VX800. Just took the Clutch Spring fixing bolts out, added a stainless washer on each spring and re-assembled. Job done!!
Or you could get a new set of springs as they are only a few quid each.
I don't think I even drained the oil as the oil is low enough when its on the side stand which is the other side.


Just found the thread where Yam mentions the above in reply to Daves query about his clutch slipping:

https://www.suzuki800.com/t4213-clutch-replacement

Yes - worth checking if you have a cable clutch like the VX, then there is an adjuster inside where the cable goes into the engine casing (as well as the usual one on the handle bars). Make sure that is adjusted right, as it can cause clutch slipping in top gear if not set up right.

If that's ok, then replacing the springs, or shimming the existing springs with a washer of around 1mm thick will normally sort it. As Andrew says, this can be done carefully without draining the oil.

Also note the VX has a back-limiter clutch so the 8 springs are not all the same. There are 4 for the clutch & 4 for the back-limiter. Don't mix the bolts up as they are different lengths and you can damage the spider if you get it wrong ! (costly).

Hope all goes well with your endeavours.         Yam

Replaced the clutch friction plates & springs today, the plates were about 2/3 rds worn so worth doing. All went Fine, adjusted the clutch at engine end to give required amount of play at lever. All good until I come to put it into neutral - bloody gear lever is solid !
I'm sure it's nothing that I've done whilst fitting the clutcclutch, reckon it's a gear selector / gearbox problem, most likely the problem that manifested itself with this "grinding" sensation which I've mentioned previously and which didn't disappear as I thought it had when the brake pads were replaced . Think it's going to have to go in to a repair shop for diagnosis / repair coz gearboxes are completely beyond me ..... methinks this could be expensive !

Sounds too much of a coincidence, does the clutch work fine?

Yep, clutch is engaging and disengaging OK mate ( had bike running up on hydraulic lift ) . What do you think it could be then Sim ? - it's not like fitting a clutch is complicated and I did it methodically and correctly as far as I know ?
Only thing I forgot to do was to loosen the cable before I fitted the clutch plates but I did that after I'd put it back together and all seemed OK.

No idea? Have you tried turning the back wheel whilst trying to select neutral? Or is the lever just jammed solid and won't move either way?

Yep, tried rocking the bike backward & forward - lever is just solid, no movement at all.

Update .... and useful information for anyone who’s thinking of replacing the clutch on their 800 ( which is very simple by the way, if you do it right first time ! )

The gear shift rod runs right through the engine block from the left to the right and holds the selector fork which selects the gears. This rod can be pulled out with ease, disconnecting the selector fork from the selector cog and this is what happened to me. Consequently, the shift lever would not move and was solid, locking the bike in gear.
Inside the right hand engine cover, placed to correspond with the selector rod is a dowel built in to the casing. This dowel mates up to the selector rod and pushes against it when the engine cover is in place, preventing the rod from moving and ensuring the selector fork is mated to the cog correctly. Make sure the selector rod is seated as far in as it will go before putting the engine cover back on. I didn’t and ultimately that was what caused the problem detailed above. A very simple error, not costly but time consuming as I had to basically do the job twice, with the exception of replacing the clutch plates, which only took 5 mins anyway.

Hopefully, this bit of advice will prevent another member from making the same mistake. It’s very easy to do but just as easy to avoid doing if you know about it beforehand.

Big thanks to Simbo for making me question myself rather than just chucking the bike in to a repair shop ... Your a top geezer Sim !

PS - job was well worth doing, the clutch is smoother than it has been for a long time and it’s improved the gear change no end too. 

Well done Mick ...good to hear its sorted ..

yorky wrote:

Well done Mick ...good to hear its sorted ..

Cheers Alan 

The Vol lives to ride another day    how many miles on the odo now Mick?

simbo wrote:

The Vol lives to ride another day    how many miles on the odo now Mick?

Just passed 38,500 miles mate 

Hardly run in

Thanks for that about to change the clutch in my VX. I'm sure this would have happened to me too. sometimes if it wasn't for bad luck I wouldn't have any luck!